Chukotethnoexp. Part III. Yakutia Once Again
March 16–21, 2012
We leave the hospitable and sunny Magadan region with its abundance of ghost towns. Our expedition enters the territory of Yakutia once again.
It’s −40° outside. This particular temperature is notable because −40° is the same in Celsius and Fahrenheit. It’s also notable because it’s no big deal for the police inspector valiantly guarding the boom barrier in the town of Artyk. Fur coat? Not for this guy.
With an air of great importance, he meticulously takes down our ID information.
And we continue onwards.
Yakutia is endlessly vast. Its territory is larger than that of Kazakhstan, at any rate.
In the winter, all the bridges are closed and traffic is rerouted directly over the frozen river. Because when the temperature falls below minus 50, metal becomes brittle, so trucks could collapse the bridge.
A dinner consisting of spoils from Magadan. Hey, you need a break from canned meat every once in a while.
The endless road begins. Or rather, the temporary winter roadway.
Endless mountains. Or rather, endless hills.
And endless fir trees. Or rather, larches.
And all of this continues for many days. And you find yourself in completely otherworldly fairytale places.
And sometimes all of a sudden—bam! A sign in the middle of the forest.
Choose, or it’ll be worse! Well? If you make up your mind, come on in!
And then—sunsets, sunrises once again.
The winter road.
Ice mounds and hollow cavities.
Sibik River. Ice mounds. Hollow cavities
Very little vegetation.
Lots of vegetation.
Animal tracks.
And sometimes all of a sudden—bam! A hammer and sickle on a cabin in the middle of the mountains.
Zyryanka
Map
A wonderful place.
I can picture growing up here.
Amidst the striped houses.
Amidst mind-boggling slogans.
The ideas of young people—into the plans for the development of the Verkhnekolymsky District.
Amidst even more mind-boggling slogans.
Initiative and competence for the good of the people!
Amidst cars embedded in ice.
Amidst modest offerings.
Available for sale:
Photo camera with case 10 000 rub. Sold.
Metal door — 15000 rub
1) Metal door — 15000 rub
(left-right)
2) Tent (3×3 m) h-270 — 6000 rub
3) Battery — 9000 rub
4) Stepladder — 5000 rub 4000 rub
5) Dastpan + broom — 400 rub
6) Water filter — 6350 rub
7) Fishing net (bale) — 2500 rub
8) Tefal Mixer — 3200 rub
9) Fresh onions 1kg — 65 rub
10) Potatoes 1kg — 75 rub
11) Barrels (50 L) _ pcs — 1100 rub (6 barrels left)
And fish sold from the windowsill of a gas station.
For sale: salted whitefish 1kg — 100 rub. Smoked whitefish 1 kg — 150 rub.
And riding your snowmobile to go get some bread.
A fisherman’s workplace.
A fisherman’s ad.
Fresh frozen burbot for sale. Price 1kg — 20 rub. Wholesale discount 25 %. KRO KMNS. Hours: I will be at my place until March 1 until 13:00
A distance sign.
Srednekolymsk 180, Argakhtakh 316, Andryushkino 420, Chersky 845. Arctic Hwy. ZAO “Roads of Kolyma.” Tel. 42-1-24
“Do you know how far it is to Chukotka?”
“It’s a frigging trek, man!”
We trek across Kolyma, passing a barge along the way.
Srednekolymsk
Map
2012.
Srednekolymsk
Stable development, without upheavals.
We Yakuts stand for stable development, without upheavals!
The riverfront.
The city is full of poles.
Detailed children.
Why the mammoth is drawn inside a telephone dial is a mystery that Srednekolymsk chose not to reveal.
Srednekolymsk is 365 years old!
Argakhtakh
Map
We speed by along the river.
There’s an unexpectedly beautiful cemetery here.
Kolyma turns into an ice highway. You can easily go a hundred kilometers an hour. The road surface is ideal.
Chersky
Map
The river abuts the city.
The locals stroll about.
The city is small.
But a few wall paintings have already cropped up on its streets.
Naletik, happy b-day!
Carried out in an unsophisticated adolescent hand.
Cheesecake
This once used to be a major arctic aviation center. Now it’s a graveyard of old Soviet planes.
All the planes have been left to rust on the airfield, save for two which have been put up on pedestals in the city.
The riches of Yakutia—into every home.
“The riches of Yakutia—into every home!” Yulia Peskovskaya. Candidate for Deputy of the State Duma of Russia
A dump truck with a shipping container on a sled passes us by.
Nothing new has been built here for a long time now. And whatever was left unfinished just sits as is.
Consumer services.
Complex household appliance repairs. Household appliance repairs. Photo and film equipment repairs. Television and radio equipment repairs.
A grocery store.
The people always come first.
The people always come first!
And only here, on the 18th day of the expedition, did Yakutia finally end and Chukotka begin.
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