Northern Cyprus

February 11–14, 2012

In 1974, the Greeks on Cyprus decided to vote the Turks off the island. But Turkey sent in troops and occupied the north third of the island’s territory. All the Turks from the south part moved to the north, and all the Greeks from the north went to the south.

In the end, only Turkey recognized the newly formed Northern Cyprus. Other countries are in no rush so far. Local airports can’t receive international flights, there are no big-name hotel chains here, and the local Turks, unlike their continental counterparts, don’t haggle.

Kyrenia (Girne)

A bus stop.

The road surface markings (along with driving on the left side) were inherited from the British.

And the traffic signs are like the ones in Britain (compare this to the elderly people in Scotland).

The local residents are curious about their origins.

We already know the history—first the Greeks, then the English. Post boxes don’t lie.

A beautiful bay. There are no tourists here in February, so it’s pure bliss.

No one is swimming.

Waves lap at the shore for the enjoyment of lonely pigeons.

There are casinos everywhere. Russians, by the way, are only allowed to play roulette. The blackjack and poker tables are off-limits.

A juice fresh-squeezing stand, like in Hurghada.

There are speed cameras all over the north. Everyone slows down for them and then resumes speeding.

A pedestrian crossing.

We travel onwards.

There are occasional ads in Russian.

Do you want a house abroad, by the sea? Then YOU should come streight to US! Property Sales and Consultations in Cyprus. House by the Sea Ltd. Beachside apartments starting at 49 900 euros, villas starting at 80 000 euros. Interest-free financing for up to 2 years, loan options for terms of up to 6 years

Nicosia

Traffic lights.

A Northern Cyprus traffic sign: vehicles are prohibited from entering the intersection ahead if there are any obstacles in the intersection.

British yellow globes on posts at pedestrian crossings still remain here.

A button-activated pedestrian crossing light.

All the rest is the same as in Turkey.

Minarets everywhere.

Since half the city belongs to the South and half to the North, there are Turkish “Forbidden Zone” signs all along the border, which mean that this is a military zone and photography is prohibited.

The Turks really like to enforce their own rules. So it’s best to take photographs covertly, without calling too much attention to what you’re doing.

A trash dumpster.

An electrical box.

Famagusta

There are solar water heaters on the roof of every house.

Post boxes in Northern Cyprus are always located in the middle of a bunch of café tables.

Bankamatik banking.

An old sign with text in Turkish and Greek.

A city with typically Turkish aesthetics, in short.

And there would be nothing else to say if Famagusta didn’t happen to be one of the most interesting cities in the world. So interesting that the Turkish military immediately arrests anyone who tries to photograph it and fines them at least 500 euros.

It all began in 1974, when the Turkish army was moving south. The ritziest part of Famagusta at the time—a district called Varosha—was completely evacuated in a matter of hours. It’s been impossible to get inside ever since then.

The most pristine beaches, the swankiest hotels where all the VIPs stayed—all this was in Varosha.

Almost forty years have gone by. The district is still being held by Turkish armed forces. Everything here has remained exactly as it was.

At first, the Turks were planning to return the area to the Greeks. But the years went by, the buildings crumbled, and the two sides still couldn’t reach a compromise.

Everything gradually fell into a state of total disrepair. The three kilometers of beach continue to sit unused.

A 1974 construction crane has come to a standstill forever.

The hotels will never check in another guest.

The occupied area has an old airport, shops, car dealerships with 40-year-old cars.

The only lights that go on at night are in military sentry boxes. The lights visible on the horizon are already in the Greek part of Cyprus.

The main difference between Famagusta and places like Pripyat, Pyramiden or Bechevinka is that there’s a functioning hotel here, right next to the border of the guarded ghost town.

It’s cozy at the hotel. And beautiful. And sad.